WEFT REPLENISHING :-
Hand pirn winding:-
If the weft yarn received in hank form, then yarn has to be wound either on pirn or bobbin by hand winding and winding machine for a package.
As earlier explained about the pirn winding , the method of making pirn is same. But only thing is that the yarn wounded on a package with the help of winding machine where an extra apparatus (tools) is attached to the machine This tool is called “Swift" . The Hanks is placed on this Swift and the passage of weft yarn is as in pirn winding is followed to complete the yarn package.
In villages the winding of pirn from Hanks are done manually . It can be operated by any person in the house. Normally a house women can also operate this apparatus. The apparatus used to make the pirn is generally called as “CHARKHA" .
SWIFT DESCRIPTION:-
A swift is a tool used to a hank of yarn while it is being wound off(uncoiled) from the hand wound in a form of useable knitting and weft pirn (Kandi). It has an adjustable diameter so that can hold Hanks of any size , and rotates around a central rod . Developed in the United States , they are generally made of wood or metal, though other material also be used . In 18th and 19th centuries, swift were some time made of Whale Ivory and they are now sought after antiques. Swifts are not used very much in the textile industry but are used more by knitters and crocheters who buy their hank form. The swift allow easy balling without the yarn getting tangled and knotted.
Image of wooden umbrella Swift
Types of swift:-
A swift can be as simple as four rods fixed into the a axis , with bands connecting them. By sliding the Hanks the effective diameter changes , for different sized hanks. However most swift are more complicated than this.
The umbrella swift is one of the more common varieties, the advantages of it being that it folds up when not in use . Wooden umbrella swift are the most common type of swift in use. They are preferred by hand spinner, because they are fold up which is good for storage and generally more stable of high quality, and look nicer than the umbrella swift.
Another type is the “Amish style" swift a rotating cross with positionable pegs to adjust for different diameter of hanks.
A “spinner weasel" similar to a swift , however it does not adjust to the various sized hank which today this is a big disadvantage, ad different manufacturers does not always make all yarn hand spun. At this time hanks from one spinner would all be the same niddy-noddy, this only be one diameter was needed.
Image of A horizontal axis swift , the hank brone on horizontal dowells between spokes .
Image of a spinner weasel swift, with gearing for counting rotation and thus measuring length.
Common substitute:-
In modern day spinners weasels are even less common than swift.
One substitute for a swift is have some one else hold the hank. This has several disadvantages however , first a willing , second person has to be found, and secondly unless the other person had a lot of practice holding hanks, the yarn winds off as swift much better. Yarn tends to catch on the hands and wrist watches of the peson holding the hanks and a swift has neither hand nor watch to catch the yarn.
Another common substitute is the back of a chair. The disadvantage of is that the hank is not kept under tension , and thus the yarn has a tendency to get tangled and one has to stop often to untangle it.
USES OF SWIFT:-
Swifts are most commonly used to ball a hank of yarn. An increasing percentage of yarn is sold in hank form , especially hand spun yarns , which necessitates balling for knitter and crocheters. Swift are also sometimes used by weaver in preparing the warp if the yarn for warp comes in hanks , the warp can be directly wound on to the warping board from the swift. As weaving yarn generally comes on cone though, this use isn’t prevelant.
ref:-https://en.m.wikipedia.org
Hand pirn winding process:-
As earlier discussed that the apparatus used in hand pirn winding with help of swift and charkha. About swift I have explained as per above. Now I am going to give about the use of charkha and it’s working , and description.
CHARKHA:-
Charkha is a apparatus which is commonly used to wind any warp or weft yarn on bobbin or pirn ( Kandi) with the help of the spindle in it, received in hanks form.
Image of a charkha along with a swift operating a village women. https://en.m.wikipedia.org
As shown in the above picture a village women is operating the charkha to make a bobbin of yarn with the help of spindle in it with the help of swift already having a hank placed on it.
CHARKHA:-
A charkha is consist of two wooden frame and a base wooden plate, two or one small piece in shape of a small bat having a hole in center for placing of spindle, an ordinary bicycle ring having free wheel movement with spoke on which a handle is fixed.
Arrangement of parts in charkha:-
As shown in the figure above, in right hand side of women, the bigger wooden frame (height about 2.5 to 3 feet) fixed in the base frame it may 2.5 to 3 feet as for convenient to operate charkha, facing the women. On this frame a bicycle ring with spokes is fixed on the upper hole provided for it (a wooden Circle apparatus can be also used) . A handle is also fixed on the spoke for rotation of ring. Coming to other side , in the left side of the women, a small frame is fixed in base race holding the one or two small piece of wooden bat type having hole in the center facing the swift. A spindle is passed through the center hole of the wooden piece and a bobbin or pirn can be inserted in this spindle. Now for the rotation of this spindle for winding a twin or rope, is used, one end taken over the cycle ring and taking it front side along with the base to spindle taking a half round and tied at second end of the twin tightly. This passage will give rotation to spindle for winding process.
WORKING:-
Hand pirn winding:-
If the weft yarn received in hank form,then yarn has to be wound either on pirn by hand winding and winding machine for a package.
As earlier explained about the pirn winding the method of making pirn is same. But only thing is that the yarn wounded on a package with the help of winding machine where an extra apparatus (tools) is attached to the machine This tool is called “Swift" . The Hanks is placed on this Swift and the passage of weft yarn is as in pirn winding is followed to complete the yarn package.
In villages the winding of pirn from Hanks are done manually . It can be operated by any person in the house. Normally a house women can also operate this apparatus. The apparatus used to make the pirn is generally called as “CHARKHA" .
DESCRIPTION OF CHARKHA:-
A charkha is consist of two wooden frame and a base wooden plate, two or one small piece in shape of a small bat having a hole in center for placing of spindle, an ordinary bicycle ring having free wheel movement with spoke on which a handle is fixed.
Arrangement of parts in charkha:-
As shown in the figure above, in right hand side of women, the bigger wooden frame (height about 2.5 to 3 feet) fixed in the base frame it may 2.5 to 3 feet as for convenient to operate charkha, facing the women. On this frame a bicycle ring with spokes is fixed on the upper hole provided for it (a wooden Circle apparatus can be also used) . A handle is also fixed on the spoke for rotation of ring. Coming to other side , in the left side of the women, a small frame is fixed in base race holding the one or two small piece of wooden bat type having hole in the center facing the swift. A spindle is passed through the center hole of the wooden piece and a bobbin or pirn can be inserted in this spindle. Now for the rotation of this spindle for winding a twin or rope, is used, one end taken over the cycle ring and taking it front side along with the base to spindle taking a half round and tied at second end of the twin tightly. This passage will give rotation to spindle for winding process.
WORKING:-
A bobbin or pirn is inserted in the spindle. Then the yarn received for winding in hanks either warp or weft is loaded on the swift , this swift is placed over a swift stand as in the above figure. The hank is spread over the swift for easy unwinding. The starting end of the yarn end taken and one or two round of is given on bobbin or pirn to hold the yarn . After this the women rotates the bicycle ring to clock wise direction, with this movement the spindle gets rotation having bobbin on it, and the yarn gets wounded on the bobbin. After a certain amount of yarn wounded , she takes out the ready bobbin and continue same winding. The process is repeated as all the yarn get exhausted or its requirement. Now the yarn is ready for used.
This process of making pirns or bobbins are normally followed in small villages . It can be done by a women. It provides the employment to her whilst staying in home also managing their household.
Written by imteyaz Ahmed Ansari D.H.Tech.
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