Weaves of Woven Fabrics:-


Weaves of Woven fabrics:-
The weave is the interlacment of warp and weft yarns to produce a woven fabric. Fabrics are manufactured in wide varieties and designs. The basic weaves are plain, twill and satin. All the others are derivatives of these basic weaves or their combination.
Different basic weaves structures.
A. Different types of Weaves abd their Name:-
1) Plain Weave.
2) Twill Weave.
3) Satin & Sateen Weave.
4) Honey Comb Weave.
5) Huck a Back Weave.
6) Crepe Weave.
7) Bedford Cord Weave.
8) Welts and Pique.
9) Mock Leno Weave.
10) Leno Weave.
11) Backed cloth.
12) Terry Pile.
13) Velvets and Velveteens.
14) Double cloth.
15) Tubular cloth.
In the above list we have already discussed some weaves that I will be going to omit those weaves i.e.from sr. no. (1) Plain weave. (2) Twill weave. (3) Satin & Sateen weave. (4) Honey comb weaves. (5) Huck a back weave. (6) Crepe weave. (7) Bed ford cord weave. (8) Welts and pique weave.and (9) Mock Leno weave.
Others Details of remaining weaves are as follows:-
Derivatives of Twill Weave:-
(1) Broken twill.
(2) Diamond design.
(3) Elongated twill (design.)
(4) Shaded twill.
(5) Zigzag/waved/pointed twill.
(6) Combined twill.
(7) Herring bone twill. (Alredy explained earlier.
BROKEN TWILL:-
This is obtained by breaking the twill line of regular twill. It is somewhat similar in appearance to Zigzag twill. Broken twill can be obtained in different ways. At first, basic twill is divided into two sections, then the first section is unchanged and the second section is reversed.
Broken twill design showing basic plane, repeat size 8x8 , its drafting plane with lifting plane.
Diamond Design:- 
It is a derivatives of twill weave . It is obtained by combining horizontal and vertical zigzag twill. In this weave pointed design is obtained.
image of basic design twill showing the diamond design in repeat size 12x12 with draftin plan and lifting plan.
Elongated Twill:-
Normally, the twill angle is 45 degree where the ends and picks per unit area are equal. But in elongated twill, the twill angle is more or less than 45 degree.
Shaded Twill :-
By shaded twill, we can create shaded effect on fabric. The shade effect is created by the combination of some thick to thin twills or thin to thick twills.
image of Shaded twill with a repeat size of 20x20.
Zigzag/Waved/Pointed twill:-
 It is the simplest and one of the most important modifications of twill weave produced by reversing the direction of twill at suitable interval.
A point is selected (usually the last warp is selected) as the reversing point and so it is sometime called as pointed twill. This twill is produced by combining S and Z twist. According to reversing of direction, there are horizontal and vertical zigzag twill:-
image showing Horizontal zigzag twill with basic weave repeat size 5x5 , design plan of repeat size 10x5 with drafting plan and lifting plan.
image showing Vertical zigzag twill , basic repeat size 5x5 weave (design) plan repeat size 5x10 with drafting and lifting plan.
Combined Twill:-
In these types of weave, two different types of continuous twills are combined together alternately. The combination may be warp way or weft way. The angle of twill is influenced by the method of combination.
LENO WEAVE:-
Also known as Gauze or Cross weaving, Leno weave is a weave in which two warp yarns twist and grip tightly around the weft yarns. This makes for a more open weave that can be woven tightly for shirting or left completely loose to resemble netting or mesh.
image showind Leno design on fabric.
Backed cloth:-
The weave combines 2 or more different weaves but the weave on one side is not visible on other side. For example: sateen on face side and twill on back side is woven with appropriate stitches. Using this weave, 2 different types of yarn can be woven on face and back side of fabric. For example; linen on face side and cotton on back side can be woven. This combination will give good comfort to the wearer and along with elegant appearance.
TERRY PILE:-
This weave is unique in nature by producing loop piles on the fabrics. These weaves are used in toweling fabrics. More popularly these towels are known as Turkey towels or terry towels. These towels are more popular for their water absorbency.
Velvets and Velventeens:-
These are cut pile fabrics more popularly used for rich furnishing and made up fabrics. They are also used for jewel boxes, car upholstery etc.
DOUBLE CLOTH:-
image of double cloth.
Double cloths are fabrics, in which there are atleast two series of warp and weft threads each of which is engaged primarily in producing its own layer of cloth, thus forming a separate face cloth and a separate back cloth. The purpose of the construction is to improve the thermal insulation value of a fabric with smart face appearance. Double cloths are used as different types of decorative cloth such as – sofa cover, furnishing cloth, curtain fabric, bed cover, pillow cover and other home textiles. It is also used for the production of winter garments, quilts, belts, different types of industrial fabrics etc.
a. Self-stitched Double Cloth:-
These fabrics contain only the two series of threads in both directions and the stitching of the face cloth layer to the back layer is accomplished by occasionally dropping a face end under a back pick or by lifting a back end over a face pick or by utilizing both of the above systems in different portions of the cloth.
image of self stitched double cloth.

b. Center-stitched double cloth.
In these fabrics, a third series of threads is introduced either in the warp or in the weft direction whose entire function is to stitch the two otherwise separate layers of cloth together. The center threads lies between the face and the back cloth for the purpose of stitching oscillate at regular intervals between the face and the back thus achieving the required interlayer cohesion as shown at the following figure.
image of center-stitched double cloth.
Tubular cloth:-
It is a double cloth woven without stitching points between the face and back fabrics. When we take out the fabric from loom, it will be a tube made-up of fabric.

Ref:-https://mygovt.blogspot.com

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