DOUBLE CLOTH MANUFACTURING:-
The Constitution Principe of Double cloth and it's properties:-
The aim to produce woven cloth with good hand feel and with enhanced thermal resistance property. The construction of double cloth is useful where the development of thermal insulation value of a fabric with a fine appearance is essential. Double weaves are categorized by harness floats in paired or greater combinations on a face and altered paired or greater float combinations on the back. Double cloth is aesthetic in intension for that purpose the existence of two series of threads in every way develops the capacity for creating complicated properties depending upon both colour and structural variations. In double weave, the two cloths are connected where they change faces to form pattern generally in one colour against background. Air permeability, thermal conductivity and some other properties are tested and discussed in this research which provides and comfortability to the wearer of double cloth. Loose construction showed higher air permeability those were useful for the body. Compact fabrics with compact structure show less thermal conductivity values which resists the temperature to pass fast so that wearer will feel warm. Denser constructions showed less shrinkage with higher strength due to compactness in the structures.
Double cloth, Air prmiability, Thermal conductivity, Year; Tensile, Shrinkage:-
There is a great importance of this study in woven fabric production that can be utilized while making a two layered cloth namely double cloth in which two or more sets of warps and one or more sets of wefts are interconnected to make a two-layered cloth. The movement of threads in between the layers allows complex patterns and surface textures. In modern textile manufacturing, double cloth is occasionally restricted to fabrics where two warps and three wefts are made up as two distinct fabrics which joined by the third or binding weft. This difference is not always made in double-woven fabrics where two warps and two wefts interlace to shape geometric pattern. Double cloth is also called doubled faced fabric as it does not have any specific face side or back side. It includes the blankets, satin ribbons, and interlinings. Modern use of this double weave fabric is in coats, furnishing fabrics, and some brocades. In the double weave structure, the two weaves are joined by the weft of the subordinate weave that passes either above or below the key weave to generate pattern. In stitched double cloth, the two weave structures are joined where particular warp threads of one of them weave with the weft of the other. The modest signs of double cloth utilize both a point diagram and the weft cross section diagram to demonstration alternations in between top and bottom. In diagram, the warp yarns may be signified by each end to allow easy visualizations. Numerous recurrences of each end weaving pattern join to allow the double face of a fabric. A subtype of double weaves are velvets, which are designed with a travelling binder warp that is cut after weaving to form a pile on the surface of either fabric base.
The weaving of double cloth is an antique practice that are inherently doing through antecedent. The historical background of double weaving has been found dating back as from early 700AD. William Morris, the Craftsman and designer was well known for using double cloth in his intricate pieces of fabric hu.
That time, those were customarily made up with silk and wool with heavily patterned. These were fashioned in the late 19th Century. Double cloth can be made up with wool, silk, cotton, viscose or polyester that depends upon the end use. Double cloth had separate warps of wool and silk yarn and were woven by Alexander Morton & Co. of Darvel, Scotland, later who weave similar fabrics designs by C.F.A Voysey and others. Further thoughts in double weaves contain whether shuttle or shuttle less weaving methods are applied and whether immediate weft insertions in top and bottom sheds occur .
If shuttle weaving is employed, a nonstop loop of weft yarn is injected along crosswise the width of the fabric. Technical uses of this fabric type comprise vascular grafts and spacesuit joints. In the latter role, a double weave tubular fabric was established at Georgia Tech in the 1970s and 1980s by Dr. Howard Olson for elbow and knee joints as the first solution to avoid vascular devastation of astronauts’ arms and legs through bending motions.
Construction Principle of Double Cloth:-
Actually, double cloths are the fabrics, which contains two layers of yarns those are woven one above the other and stitched together. Double cloths have at least two series of warp yarns, and two series of weft yarns, namely face and back. Double cloths fabrics are popularly known as two ply fabrics. The upper layer is formed by interlacing the face warp yarns with the face weft yarns, and the lower layer is formed by interlacing the back warp yarns with the back weft yarns. The two layers may be only loosely connected in which, each may be readily identified as a different entity, or they may be so intricately stitched or tied together that they appear to form a complex single structure. Below Figure 1 shows a double cloth.
Figure 1:Double cloth.
Purpose of making Double cloth:-
1) To improve the thermal resistance value of the fabric
2)To improve the air permeability of the fabric and
3) To increase good appearance and hand feel of the fabric
Types of Double Cloth:-
a) Self-stitched Double cloth:-
Figure 2:Self-stitched double cloth.
b) Center stitched double cloth
c) Double cloth stitched by thread interchange
d) Double cloth stitched by cloth interchange
e) Alternate single ply and double ply construction
a) Self-stitched Double cloth:-
This double cloth is constructed on the principle of self-thread stitching. In this cloth, the face fabric is formed by the interlacement of the face warp and face weft threads and the back fabric is formed by the interlacement of the back warp and back weft threads. The two fabric layers are stitched together at intermediate points by either face/back warp or face/back weft or both. Distinctive structures with various possible techniques are drawn below. In a self-stitched double cloth fabric, one series of warp and weft interlace to form the face fabric and the other series of warp and weft interlace to form the back fabric. The face and back threads are supposed to be prearranged in an appropriate order, which depends on the fabric to be woven. Usually, different weaves are selected for the face and back fabrics. By the interlacement of the corresponding face threads, the face fabric is formed, the back fabric is Figure 2 showed a self-stitched double cloth.
b) Center stitched Double cloth:-
These double cloths are constructed on the principle of center thread stitching. In these cloths, besides a face and back series of threads, there is a third series of threads those are introduced as stitching threads at different intervals. The stitching can be done in warp way, weft way or in both the way. Basically, stitching threads stay in between the face layers and the back layers of the cloth and are visible on the face or back at the stitching points. Figure 3 shows a center stitched double cloth.
Figure 3:Center stitched double cloth.
c) Double cloth stitched by thread interchange:-
It is constructed on the principle of stitching by thread interchange. This fabric is like the self-stitched double cloths as the stitching is done by means of either the face or the back threads themselves. Basically, the dissimilarity is that, a group of face threads interlace or stitch with another group of back threads at regular intervals. An example is given in below Figure 4.
Figure 4:Double cloth stitched by thread interchange.
d) Double Cloth stitched by cloth interchanged:-
This cloth is constructed on the principle of cloth interchange. In these cloths, the cloth layers change places at intervals. The firmness of this type of structural cloth depends on the frequency of the exchange of the face and back layers of the cloth. An example is given in below Figure 5.
Figure 5:Double cloth stitched by cloth interchange.
e) Alternate Single ply and double ply construction:-
It is constructed on the principle of alternation as single ply and double ply construction. In these cloths, the group of threads are forming the face are merged together with those of the back to form a single layer at intervals. The face layer is separated from the back, wherever a figure is formed. An example is given in below Figure 6.
Figure 6:Double cloth based on alternate single ply and double ply construction.
Double Cloth without any stitching thread:-
The Figure 7 shows double cloth that is produced without using any stitching threads. These cloths become single cloths after removing it from the loom. In this figure, there is shown a double width cloth and a tubular.
Figure 7:Double cloths without stitching threads.
Construction of self-stitched double cloths :-
Method of self-stitched double cloth are discussed below:-
a) Stitching from face to back
b) Stitching from back to face
c) Combination stitching
a) Stitching from face to back:-
The face warp stitching with the back weft, so the warp has long overlap on the back side. It is necessary to use weft faced weaves with long warp floats at the back. The back fabric also should have weft faced weave. The long weft floats can be used for stitching with the warp threads of the face fabric. Divided draft is preferable for this system .
In the below mentioned Figure 8, face weave is used 4/4 and back weave is used 2/2. Insertion of the face weave on the face ends, face picks only according to the original design and similar that refers to the back weave: insert the back weave on the back ends and picks only, according to the original design. Two separate fabrics are produced one above the other with the final weave.
b) Stitching from back to face:-
Here, in this method, the face and back fabrics are stitched together by the back warp to stitch with the face weft. So, the stitching back warp threads are caused to float above the corresponding face weft picks. Various stages of construction of the double cloth constructed by this method. To get this type of stitching, the lower side of the face fabric should have long weft floats and the upper side of the back fabric should have longer warp floats. The stitching point is selected in the middle of the long weft float at the lower side of the face fabric. Divided draft is preferable here, as two series of warp threads are found .
In the below mentioned Figure 9, face weave 4/4 and back weave 2/2. Insertion of the face weave on the face ends, face picks only according to the original design and similar that refers to the back weave insertion of the back weave on the back ends and picks only.
Waded double Cloth:-
Wadded yarns are used in double cloth to add extra weight and material in fabric. The threads are basically used in either warp way or weft way. The wadded yarns are coarser than the other threads and are made of cheaper material. The aim of using wadded thread is to increase air permeability or thermal conductivity and comfortability .
Double Cloth with wadded warp:-
In these types of fabrics, the wadding threads are used in warp way. Comparatively, it is a well-situated and inexpensive method. During weaving, greater pressure is introduced on warp threads, which requires the use of a better-quality wadding material. In the warp wadded structures, the wadding ends must be raised on all back picks and left down on all face picks. Use of wadding threads enhance the strength of a double cloth in the direction of the wadding yarn. It is also helpful to increase firmness of the wadding threads those are stitched to the double cloth. These stitches are being placed adjacent to the ordinary stitches to reduce their effect.
In the below mentioned Figure 10, face weave is 4/4 and back weave is 4/4. The complete design shows face and back with wadded yarn in warp direction. In warp wedded structures, the wedding ends are raised on all back picks and left down all face picks.
Double cloth with wadded weft:-
These fabrics are manufactured by inserting wadded threads in weft way. The wadded picks stay in between the face and back picks. Wadding yarn lies in between the two fabrics without interweaving with either, the same conditions are necessary, so far as regards the face weave, the ties and the back weave, as in the construction of double cloths. The wadded design is the same as the ordinary double design except for the inclusion of the wadding threads, and in order that comparisons may be made, the double weave without the wadding. In weft wadded structures all face ends are up, and all back ends are down, on wadding picks.
In the below mentioned Figure 11, face weave is 4/4, back weave is 4/4. The complete weave shows the face and the back weave with wadded threads in weft way. In weft wadded structure, all face ends remain up, all back ends remain down on wedding pick.
Figure 11:Double cloth with waded weft.
Materials and Methods:-
MATERIALS:-
Six types of double cloths were used in this experiment to do the required tests. Figure 12 is given below that shows a double cloth used in this experiment. In these types of fabrics, 2/2 RHT weave is used as face cloth and 2/2 RHT weave is used as back cloth. The face warp is stitched with the back weft, so the warp should have long overlap on the back side. It is necessary to use weft faced weaves with long warp floats at the back. The back fabric also should have weft faced weave. The long weft floats on the upper side of the back fabric can be used for stitching with the warp threads of the face fabric. Divided draft is used to make this fabric. The construction of this samples are given in the Table 1. Composition, weight and width are also given in Table 1.
Figure 12:Double cloth fabric, used in this experiment.
The method of different testings are given in next post.
ref:-https://crimsonpublishers.
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